Far North Rambles #7: Suits To Boots

First experiences are always important. They can set the tone for the rest of your life.

Bearskin Lake is located about 1420 km (880 miles) northwest of Toronto, in northern Ontario. It holds several “firsts” for me. It was:

1. my first visit to a remote, fly-in, First Nation community;

2. my first time on a First Nation reserve;

3. my first meeting with a First Nation Chief and Council;

4. the first time my bags were searched for drugs and alcohol;

5. my first time in that far north area of Ontario;

6. the first time I met a Nishnawbe Aski Police Officer, a police service serving 34 First Nation communities in the Nishnawbe Aski Nation Territory;

7. where I received my first cultural lesson about First Nation people who live in northern Ontario.

Like many of life’s firsts, that visit profoundly impacted me and my career for the next 15 years.

During the summer of 1999, the Ontario Geological Survey (OGS) cancelled 2 far north mapping projects because of conflict. I was the leader of the rock mapping unit at that time. I had no idea what changes were taking place across the far north of Ontario. I decided that I would “go north” to see for myself what the issues were.

After connecting with Raymond Beardy, then Chief of Bearskin Lake First Nation, and his Council, a meeting date was set for mid-September. The day before I flew to Bearskin Lake, I was in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island (PEI) as an “Ontario Government official” at a national meeting of Canada’s Federal, Provincial and Territorial energy and mines ministers, the leaders of Canada’s Government regulatory units, and the leaders of Canada’s Government-funded geological surveys. I left early from the Charlottetown “suits meeting” and the next day, I was flying to the Bearskin Lake airport.

At the Bearskin Lake airport, the contents of my bags, complete with several days of dirty laundry and Christmas presents purchased in PEI, were searched by an elderly lady. I had never experienced a bag search and had no idea what she was looking for. Her quiet Oji-Cree voice rose when she came across jam jars, wrapped in Christmas paper. I thought “well, perhaps the jam has found a home”, but no, after examining the jars, she carefully re-wrapped the them and carefully placed them back in my clean underwear packing. [Note added following the Facebook post on March 6, 2020: Raymond Beardy, Chief at the time of my visit, indicated that the elderly lady, who worked as the "peace keeper" at the airport, was his late Mother, Rubina Moskotaywenene.]

I watched as several pick-up trucks arrived and drove off with family members who were on the flight. The plane took off. The airport staff locked the terminal building and drove off to the town. There I was, standing alone on the gravel airport apron. Had I arranged a pick up? I couldn’t remember. Was there a taxi service? I didn’t ask, but there was no phone anyway. What to do? No problem. I would walk to town. It was a cool, cloudy September afternoon and there were no biting insects, so it would be a good walk. I guessed it would only take about an hour. As I was about to set out, I saw a cloud of dust coming along the road to the airport. A truck! A Nishnawbe Aski Police Service (NAPS) Officer stepped out. We introduced each other and one hand shake later, I was in the front seat headed to town. Apparently someone had called the police to report a very out-of-place person standing alone at the airport. And no, I was NOT wearing a suit. The police officer came to "rescue" me. He asked who I was and why I was there. I introduced myself. I asked about the bag search. He explained had the elder had found alcohol or drugs in my bags, I would be enjoying the ride to town from the back of the truck, behind a locked door with no windows. Amazingly, he spent the next 2 hours driving me around the community. He explained the culture and views of the community, who the influencers were, how decisions were made, why I might experience distrust, and reassured me that I would be received respectfully. I must have looked worried, although I confess, the whole experience so far had been a bit exciting.

The insights shared by the NAPS Officer were the first ever shared with me about First Nation reserve life and culture. Sadly, I don’t recall his name, but he remains someone who went way beyond the call of duty. He opened a window to a world that was completely new to me - just a little different from the “suits meeting” I had left. I am indebted to him. [Note added after the Facebook post, March 6, 2020: Raymond Beardy, Chief at the time of my visit, suggested that the name of the NAPS Police Officer was the late Allan Legro.]

First experiences are always important. They can set the tone for the rest of your life.

In the next Rambles, I will share insights about the most important meeting of my career, in Bearskin Lake, with Chief Raymond Beardy and Council.

Andy Fyon, Aug 19, 2020 (Facebook post, March 6, 2020); Jan 3/23.